“Two other chefs said the cheeses had a heavy shan wei (muttony odour), an ancient term used by southern Chinese to describe the slightly unsavoury tastes associated with the northern nomads. Another said that the selection “smells like Russians”. “The difference,” he added, “is that the stinky things Chinese people eat give them smelly breath, while stinky dairy things affect the sweat that comes out of your skin.”
Fuchsia Dunlop makes chefs from Shaoxing, a province known for “smelly and fermented” delicacies, taste cheese for the first time in their lives.
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